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THE NEXT
BEST
THINGS
IN
SLICED
BREAD BY JULIA
MOSKIN
OF THE
NEW YORK
TIMES
April
30, 2008
- View
actual
article
by
clicking
here
KNISH
PRESS
The
owners
of Press
195, a
sandwich
joint
with
stores
in Park
Slope,
Brooklyn,
and
Bayside,
Queens,
may have
avoided
putting
the word
"panini"
on the
menu.
Nonetheless
their
futures
are
staked
to
pressed
sandwiches:
they
have
more
than 30
on the
menu.
"Every
deli in
New York
has
panini
now,"
said an
owner,
Chris
Evans,
who grew
up
flipping
burgers
at the
estimable
Donovan's
Pub. But
what the
delis
don't
have - yet
- is
the
knish
press: a
sandwich
built on
a split
potato
knish,
the
brainchild
of Brian
Karp,
the chef
and
co-owner.
Squeezed
in the
hot
press,
the
knish's
crust
becomes
thick
and
crunchy,
and the
peppery,
onion-tinged
mashed
potato
inside
melts
into the
filling.
The
pastrami
version
is
thought-provoking,
but even
better
is
London
broil
with
gobs of
spicy
brown
mustard
and an
"onion
jam"
that
takes
you
right
back to
the hot
dog
cart.
The
knishes
are
brought
in daily
from
Gabila's
in Coney
Island.
These
square,
deep-fried
specimens
are
generally
considered
inauthentic
by knish
purists,
who
prefer
them
round
and
doughy,
but this
is an
excellent
use for
them.
"When we
got to a
certain
level of
production,
Gabila's
agreed
to
supply
us
fresh,
not
frozen,"
Mr.
Evans
said.
"That
was the
day we
felt
like we
made
it."
Order it
well-done
and be
prepared
to wait.
Press
195, 195
Fifth
Avenue
(Union
Street),
Park
Slope,
Brooklyn,
(718)
857-1950,
and
40-11
Bell
Boulevard
(40th
Avenue),
Bayside,
Queens,
(718)
281-1950.
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